Month-by-Month Lawn Care Calendar & Schedule

Month-by-Month Lawn Care Calendar & Schedule

Looking for a month by month lawn care calendar? Lawn Phix created this specialized lawn care calendar and schedule for cool-season grasses – located in the Northeast (Zone 6b) in New England. Quickly check your lawn care tasks for each month of the season in this monthly guide to a healthy, thick green turf. 

View and make a copy of my lawn care calendar on Google Sheets – and download a free copy of my cool-season lawn care guide here.

March Lawn Care

  • The first day of spring is March 20, 2021
  • Cleaning up is the main goal this month. Remove all branches, sticks, twigs, acorns and/or pine cones from the grass
  • Assess the lawn and look for troubled areas including snow mold
  • Pick up all other debris such as leaves that may have stuck remained over winter. A leaf blower is a good idea
  • Get your mower ready. Sharpen your blades. I love the Gator G3 mulching blade by Oregon
  • Get a soil test done so you know what your dirt needs heading into the season

April Lawn Care

May Lawn Care

June Lawn Care

  • The first day of summer is June 21, 2021
  • Begin your irrigation. Aim for 1″-1.5″ of water per week – including natural rain water. Water deeply but infrequently: 2-3 times per week at the most, preferably between 4-9 a.m. 
  • Grub Control & Treatment: If there’s a history of grubs or sod webworms, add a prevention (imidacloprid). To kill grubs within 48 hours, use an insecticide like Dylox
  • Fungus, such as brown patch, can also start now. Ideal climates are hot and humid. 2018 had lots of rain and hot humid overnight temps which was ideal for brown spot etc. An application of Heritage G can preventative and control turfgrass diseases for up to 28 days (also see products from May above)
  • Raise mower height to ~3.5″ (depending on grass type)
  • Spot-spray broadleaf weeds in earlier mornings or later evenings when air temperatures are under 85 degrees
  • Products:

July Lawn Care

  • High heat and low rainfalls may lead to dormant grasses
  • Irrigate as long as your town allows. Aiming for 1.5″ of weekly watering
  • Keep an eye out for lawn diseases and fungus – especially as humidity rises
  • Watch for grubs and other lawn insects
  • Fertilize with slow release nitrogen fertilizer and organic lawn products
    • Summer Survival (Potash , Humic Acid, Sea Kelp) is a great option
    • Never fertilize dormant turf
  • Products:

August Lawn Care 

September Lawn Care 

October Lawn Care 

  • Mow low again, aiming for ~2.5 – 3.0″ grass height. Final cut of the season should be 2″
  • If you skipped September tasks, do it early as nighttime temps will drop to unfavorable temperatures for new seedlings trying to germinate
  • Begin winterizer fertilizer like Macro-Micro Blend by Yard Mastery or ProPEAT 17-0-4
    • Depending on location – After your final mow (when the grass stops top growth) and before your ground freezes

Related post: Prepare your lawn for winter

November Lawn Care 

So, there you have it. I hope this calendar helps you with your annual lawn care maintenance. It’s worked for me – check out my front yard renovations.

Please let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.

 

FAQs

When is the best time to overseed my lawn?

For cool-season lawns, the best time to overseed is late summer and early fall. For example, in the Northeast and Zone 5-6, the last week of August or the beginning of September are the best conditions for new grass. The number of weeds to be invasive is much lower in September than spring seeding in the spring (April).

Can I fertilize my lawn in the summertime?

If you can irrigate regularly, you can still add fertilizer. However, it is best to apply less nitrogen during the hot summer months – particularly when drought stress occurs. Ideally, spoon-feeding with micronutrients such as humic acid and sea kelp (Kelp4Less ExtremeBlend) or a combination with molasses powder (Kelp4Less Green Lawn & Turf). Molasses in the hotter months can provide energy in the form of sugars/carbohydrates which can help “dethatch” the lawn.

How early can I fertilize my lawn in spring?

In the Northeast and Massachusetts (Zone 5-6) for example, you can begin to feed your lawn in April and May. Feeding your lawn too early can cause excessive top growth which isn’t ideal – particularly if there’s still a risk of freezing overnight temperatures and morning frost. When the air and soil temperatures are consistently in the 40s and 50s respectively is a good time to begin your feeding.

How frequently should I mow my lawn?

During peak growing season (May & June in the Northeast) you could be mowing as frequently as 2-3 times per week. This, of course, also depends on your fertilization and watering schedule. Ideally, you follow the “1/3 rule” where you are never cutting off more than 1/3 of the grass blade during each mowing. For example, if you want to maintain a 3″ lawn, you never want the grass to exceed

10 “Month-by-Month Lawn Care Calendar & Schedule” Reviews

  1. Hi,
    I appreciate you providing this info! I’m new at caring for my lawn, but have really enjoyed learning over the last few years.

    Recently I’ve discovered Poa Annua in a large portion of my yard. We live in Boston. I know I need to apply a pre-emergent in the fall for prevention, but since I’m seeing the weeds in my yard now, I’ve read that putting down a post-emergent would be a good idea. The problem is that most post-emergent herbicides are for warm season grasses. What would you recommend for this problem?

    Thanks for your help!

    1. Hi Abby. You can use Tenacity to damage the plant. But they are annuals, so they will soon die off by the summer. The Tenacity will cause it to turn brown – not sure if you want that at this time of year.

      https://lawnphix.com/lawn-care/poa-annua-annual-bluegrass-weed-control/

      Apply your normal split applications of pre-emergents in early April and early June, and again late August. Mow tall and avoid over-watering. These will help suppress poa annua. But keep in mind that they drop many seeds. These seeds are tough and can remain dormant in the soil for several years before germinating. So it’s a classic case of being a marathon and not a sprint. Good luck!

  2. Hi,
    I really enjoy your month by month care program. One of a kind out there.
    I live in Lexington MA, and I’ve been having a lot of moss growing all over. And so are my neighbors. I know about poor drainage, acidic soil and wet/humid conditions, but is moss a growing problem now a days? (pardon the pun). Anyway, what can I do to mitigate this issue? thanks for you time and efforts.
    Al

    1. Hi Al – thanks! Sounds like you know what type of soil conditions are for moss. But it can really grow anywhere. Aside from what you mentioned (damp conditions, shady area etc.) moss also grows because of bare spots. Mother Nature doesn’t like bare spots and will fill it in, be it moss or weeds etc. You could kill the moss with Moss Out when try to re-seed that area. I’d probably suggest bringing in some new screened loam and overseeding heavily to cover those areas. Good luck and I hope this helps!

  3. Hi Mark,

    Great information for someone who’s completely new to lawn care!

    I had some large patches of dead grass (learned recently due to grubs – I thought it was just dormant, and it wasn’t coming back). I just removed the dead grass, but is it too late to seed? If it is, and I seed in the fall, would I apply the starter fertilizer to the bare spots, seed, and then switch back to regular for the rest of the lawn?

    1. Hi Julio,

      Thanks! Depending on where you live, it may not be too late. I’m in Massachusetts and just seeded my backyard. Just get good seed-to-soil contact, cover with peat moss, and keep it damp. If you seeded in the fall, I would overseed the entire yard, hit those bare spots heavier, and use starter fertilizer over the entire lawn.

      Good luck!

  4. Great article! I’ve been following along to your google sheet which is a great toolfor a rookie like me. So far I’ve done the prodiamine and propeat 13-5-8. I’m due for another pro peat (17-0-4) fertilizer soon and then after that also going to apply the Andersons fertilizer with .25% dimension 21-0-10 as the second pre-emergent (following your 5 best pre-emergents article) instead of the 19-0-7. My Question is around the weeds and clovers I already have in my lawn, since there’s a decent amount in some spots. Should I replace the next fertilizer with a weed and feed product to help kill the current weeds, clovers, etc, or should I just continue the course with the next propeat 17-0-4 and Andersons 21-0-10? Or maybe just spot spray the weeds? Pretty big yard so hand picking the weeds would be quite the task. I’m in Foxboro, MA. Thanks again for posting all this great stuff!

    1. Hi Tim. Thanks for following along and for your comment! I’d personally spot spray. You will have better results. Weed and feed can be tricky: the ground needs to be damp for the product to stick to the weeds. You also have to be mindful of your mowing and irrigation/weather.

      Feel free to also use the new Carbon Phix as a replacement. It’s a 20-0-12 and has lots of great stuff like iron and Humic.

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